Out with the old

To remove the old door, first put some wedges underneath for support. Remove the screws from the top hinge (you may need to be firm with some screws or scrape off excess paint covering screws before they can be taken out). Next remove the screws from the bottom hinge and gently ease the door away from the frame.

In with the new

Place the new door into the frame to check the fit. Generally you should expect a gap of 2mm all the way around the door and a gap of between 5-10mm at the bottom of the door depending on your flooring. If you have a thick carpet you will need a bigger gap!

To remove more than 6mm off the door it is worth using a saw and sanding the rough edges away afterwards. Any less than 6mm and you should be able to use a hand plane to remove the excess, again, you may need to sand away any rough edges afterwards.

Check and re-check that the door is the correct size, adjusting further with a hand plane and sandpaper as necessary.

Fitting Door Hinges

Fit the new hinges to the door frame. You may be lucky and find that the new hinges are the same size as the old hinges so the recesses do not need adjusting. If this isn’t the case place the new hinges over the existing recesses and draw around them in pencil. Use a chisel and mallet to remove the excess wood from the frame. Check the size of the recess and continue to adjust the size as necessary.

Line up the hinge so the pivots protrude slightly from the edge of the door frame. Open up the hinge and attach to the frame with a single screw. Using wedges for support, prop the new door in the door frame (make sure you have the correct gap all around the door, especially the bottom). Using a pencil or chalk mark the top and the bottom of each hinge on the door.

Preparing the door for hanging

Unscrew the hinges from the door frame and place them on the edge of the door in line with the pencil marks you have just created, mark around the hinge on the edge of the door.

Take a chisel and tap around the outline of the hinges. Make a series of cuts to the wood inside the outline at 4-5 mm intervals, trying to keep the cuts about the same depth. Using your chisel remove the wood chips to reveal a recess in the door for the hinge. Once you are happy the hinges will fit flush with the door, secure the hinge to the door using one screw only, (using one screw will allow you to make adjustments to the door more easily).

Prop the door up on wedges at right angles to the frame, attach the hinges to the door frame using one screw per hinge. When you are satisfied that the door will open and close smoothly you can fix the door securely using the remaining screws.

Now all that’s left to do is shut the door on the outside world and enjoy your new room!

Now, with these simple to follow instructions, and a spare twenty minutes your home can be blemish free.

What tools you’ll need for fixing plaster damage

This list of what you’ll need couldn’t be simpler, just grab: a plastering trowel, a paint brush, some fine sandpaper, a screwdriver or hammer and chisel and some plaster filler (this can either be bought ready made or in a raw form which will need mixing as per manufacturers’ instructions).

Preparing the wall

The key to this job, as with many DIY tasks, is in the preparation. Using the hammer and chisel or screwdriver break off any loose plaster and removing all debris and dust away. Use the paintbrush to lightly dampen the hole and the surrounding area – this will provide a gripping surface – vital for the filler to set properly. Do not to skip this small job as older plaster will be bone dry, simply sucking any moisture from the filler meaning it does not set and grip the wall properly

Get filling

It’s time to get filling. If you’ve bought filler in a raw form it will need to be prepared as per manufacturers’ instructions. Otherwise, it’s a lot easier to be buy ready made. Simply fill the hole and the smooth over using the plastering trowel. If you’re a filling a deeper hole (say greater than 1cm) it is advised not to fill to the wall. Instead leave a small indentation and scratch the surface with your trowel – this will provide a griping surface. Then add a final coat an hour or two later.

Give a neat finish

The job isn’t worth doing unless you finish it properly. Use the trowel to make sure the filler lies as flush to the wall as possible. Don’t worry if there is a slight overlap. Once you are satisfied that it is completely dry use some fine sandpaper to sand over the filler ensuring a smooth finish and a clean join between filler and wall. A bit of touch up paint can now be used at the stage if you’re filler is a different colour to the wall. Diluting the paint with a small amount of water or using a damp sponge to apply will ensure that it blends in as naturally as possible.

And there you go, too easy – fault free walls in no time!